This image does not cover the whole sett. The count was observed on the waistcoat which is dated in the 1790s and is thought to belong to Andrew Lumsden who was one of Prince Charles’s secretaries.
The Scottish Tartans Society has two other threadcounts; one possibly used in setting up the warp of the cloth and the other taken from James Mackinlays notes. These variations come from the fact that it’s from the Macrae ‘s the Princes Own Tartan.
Made at Boghead of Kintore, Aberdeenshire 1797. It has been known under various titles but it is now recorded on the Lord Lyon Court Books under the above title.
This is called the short version making a smaller sett which is liked by some weavers.
Designed to provide a day tartan less bright than the other Lumsden tartans. Can be worn by all in the Lumsden clan (House of Lumsden).
The source of tartan 417 was
Alex Lumsden, Toronto.
The "ancient" refers to the dyes which, though of chemical origin, most closely resemble the colours and shades which were formerly vegetable dyes. These are the most authentic shades and colours. In Lumsden, this makes the red quite an orange colour (with a brightish green and blue, and yellow lines).
Newly designed and registered. Blue green black with a pink line.
These resemble the colour fading which occurred in a specimen of 18th Century tartan found some years ago at Inverness. It has proved popular as an alternative to Ancient and has softer colours than the Modern – comprising a muted red with green (more of a grey-green or olive) and a grey blue.
A bright crimson red with navy blue and bottle green.
Gents kilt8 yards. Large sett in heavy weight (15-16oz)
Gents trews4.5 yards. Large sett in medium weight (11-12oz)
Ladies skirt, with pleats 4 yards. Large or small sett
Ladies skirt, short/straight2-2½ yards. Large or small sett
Ladies skirt, long/straight2½-3 yards. Large or small sett depending on height
Ladies skirt, mini1.5 yards
All tartan is woven in 29” width
Allow 28” repeat pattern for the large sett and 12” repeat pattern in small sett (+ usual dressmaking rules.